Gastronomic judgments are subjective, so we won't argue with Michelin's stunning decision to remove Walter Miori's star after fourteen (yes, fourteen) years.
We will just say that we saved Locanda Margon for the last day of our Trento pilgrimage, and that for us it was the usual dreamy experience of absolute culinary excellence.
Share the dream with us.
We start with pure seduction:
Pumpkin veloute', warm goat ricotta, amaretti crumble (served with warm olive focaccia)
A selection of breads that is better than any starred or mulstistarred venue we've been at:
A millefeuille of veal 'testina', celeriac, Jerusalem artichoke cream (and the best olive oil)
Just look at it!Chestnut soup with chestnut slivers, strips of capon, Monte Baldo truffle, this is one of Miori's best:
We followed with Ravioli of egg white stuffed with Borlotti beans, sausage ragout: no photo, but let us tell you it takes some mastery to make elegance out of a sausage dish.
And yes, he also graced us with that eternal Trentino dish,
Canederlotti and Puzzone di Moena
here with Baldo truffles and made by such an assured hand that this dish alone is worth the trip.
The mains began with
Scallops, crispy artichokes, ginger, artichoke cream
We think you can SEE the flavours!And the 'big' main for the final punch:
Slow cooked (60 hours!) pork belly, honey reduction, chicory.
One of those perfect dishes. Simple, classy, deep, sublime.
An interlude to refresh:
Banana sorbet, pineapple carpaccio:
The dessert was a
Tavolozza: tea chocolate fondant, chocolate and tea cream, crunchy chocolate and tea, chestnut mousse with sharon fruit coulis, pistachio parfait,
a little garden of Eden for the sweet lovers.Have a look at the petit four, too
This entire tasting menu for...€55.
A chef always, always behind the stoves and checking every dish.
A remarkable lightenss of style: after all we ate we could have repeated it the day after.
To our taste, Michelin made a grave mistake this year. But no matter. Michelin or not Michelin, we'd choose this cuisine over and over again, over many multistarred ones, and we'll return at every available opportunity!
Home
