'Antipasti di mare' at Lillicu

What is an antipasto? If you come to Lillicu, a traditional and long established Cagliari restaurant (we went to via Dei Carroz 14 in Cagliari, tel +39-070-502959, although the main venue is considered to be the one in Via Sardegna 78, still in Cagliari, tel +39-070-652970), don’t expect one of those penurious oh so pretty micro amuse bouche that sometimes begin your starvation in Michelin starred establishments. Here at Lillico, a mixed fish starter is something for real men (and women):

This:

Cozze (i.e.mussles) marinara, succulent, yummissime.

And this:

Tuna ‘Scabeccio’, where sweet and sour marry harmoniously, with great tomatoes, and behind, a different combination of tuna and tomato, in excellent olive oil.

And this:

‘Gianchetti’, baby fish, fried in the lightest of batters and with utmost delicacy – a real cooking lesson to some pretentious restaurants we know of.

And this:

More delicious cozze and a most tender and flavoursome and fresh octopus.

Not satisfied yet? Well there is also this:

Prawns presented in a scallop shell and garnished with béchamel sauce.

This, ladies and gentleman, is an antipasto in a traditional, basic Italian trattoria.

To fuel our gigantic amounts of swimming we need gigantic amounts of food. So we don’t stop there. We also have

A fregola:

Tasty, not at the same level as Da Barbara but almost, and this is a big compliment.

And also a mixed grill (we asked for a reduced portion…)

It’s a cernia chunk, a squid, and king prawns: all local, all fresh, all cooked perfectly, all delicious.

Want to clean your mouth after all this fish?

Here is a bite of vegetables:

And now, really, there’s only room for a coffee.

The cost of all this, including house wine, €70. Lillicu is a very basic place where you should not take your poshest friends who wish to stay away form the inferior classes: only come with people who enjoy real, great, flavoursome seafood.

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