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Saturday, January 23, 2010

Trento December Pilgrimage n.3

ADDED FEBRUARY 2010: Walter Miori is, alas, no longer in the kitchen .

Gastronomic judgments are subjective, so we won't argue with Michelin's stunning decision to remove Walter Miori's star after fourteen (yes, fourteen) years.

We will just say that we saved Locanda Margon for the last day of our Trento pilgrimage, and that for us it was the usual dreamy experience of absolute culinary excellence.

Share the dream with us.

We start with pure seduction:

Pumpkin veloute', warm goat ricotta, amaretti crumble (served with warm olive focaccia)

A selection of breads that is better than any starred or mulstistarred venue we've been at:

A millefeuille of veal 'testina', celeriac, Jerusalem artichoke cream (and the best olive oil)

Just look at it!

Chestnut soup with chestnut slivers, strips of capon, Monte Baldo truffle, this is one of Miori's best:

We followed with Ravioli of egg white stuffed with Borlotti beans, sausage ragout: no photo, but let us tell you it takes some mastery to make elegance out of a sausage dish.

And yes, he also graced us with that eternal Trentino dish,

Canederlotti and Puzzone di Moena

here with Baldo truffles and made by such an assured hand that this dish alone is worth the trip.

The mains began with

Scallops, crispy artichokes, ginger, artichoke cream

We think you can SEE the flavours!

And the 'big' main for the final punch:

Slow cooked (60 hours!) pork belly, honey reduction, chicory.

One of those perfect dishes. Simple, classy, deep, sublime.

An interlude to refresh:

Banana sorbet, pineapple carpaccio:

The dessert was a

Tavolozza: tea chocolate fondant, chocolate and tea cream, crunchy chocolate and tea, chestnut mousse with sharon fruit coulis, pistachio parfait,

a little garden of Eden for the sweet lovers.

Have a look at the petit four, too

This entire tasting menu for...€55.

A chef always, always behind the stoves and checking every dish.

A remarkable lightenss of style: after all we ate we could have repeated it the day after.

To our taste, Michelin made a grave mistake this year. But no matter. Michelin or not Michelin, we'd choose this cuisine over and over again, over many multistarred ones, and we'll return at every available opportunity!



Chubby Chinese Girl said...

I was just thinking about starting another blog and name it Eat Drink Man Woman, so I did a search and I guess it's already taken =) great minds and tummies think alike, hehe

Man-Woman said...


Anonymous said...

I was planning to go there this July. Oh well, I still will go. It looks great.

Man-Woman said...

Go, Pedalaforte, and judge for yourself!

Anonymous said...

OK, a follow-up to my just-now post. (I wasn't sure my sign-in info would get me on here!)

This place has been on my list of "must trys" since I first read about it from one of my favorite and, I think, most astute food blogger-oos. (You, by the way.) Not only have your posts about this place always sounded outstanding, they LOOK outstanding as well. (The food in the photos, not the posts.) That is to say: "Michelin, huh?"

But I really, really don't care about Ms./Mrs./Mr. Meeesh. I think I trust you and I'm heading here this summer. I will report! And, of course, thanks.

Man-Woman said...

Ohmygod, now we feel the weight of responsibility on our shoulders!

We can't remember if we ever wrote it, but it was Chef Miori who first introduced us to the beloved Menestrinas of Osteria Fior di Roccia: when Miori was leaving his old place (do you recognise the dining room?), he told us: 'don't come only to my new place - you've got to try these guys - I wouldn't leave them my place if I didn't trust them 100%!'

Anonymous said...

"Weight of Responsibility?" Nah, no worries. I don't consider you responsible at all!

I like advice from people I come to trust, but I know I roll the dice for myself. I mean, what, I'm going to get "horrible" food at any of these places you recommend? I'm a pretty easy mark when it comes to food and wine. I eat, I drink, eventually I sing ... and then move on -- happy, usually. I'll let you know!

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