private, passionate and independent reviews of restaurants in London, Scotland and elsewhere - with some additional thoughts for food
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Friday, January 6, 2012
La Pech Abusé 2004
There is more than one reason to like this wine. First, its name is a witty pun, abusé/Buzet: they were refused the Buzet denomination. We like humour.
Second, the reason why they were refused is that they did not comply with all the detailed requirements of the appellation (e.g. aging length). We always support creative individuals against rigid bureaucracy.
Third, their label is pretty (done by the daughters of the producer). We like prettiness.
Fourth, the wine is biodynamic. Ok, we don't like all the mystical babble, but it is nice to know that it contains no sulphur and the farming is organic.
Last and fundamental, it tastes good! Merlot and Cabernets (Franc and Sauv) in full Bordeaux style, so beautifully ruby that one would even feel justified in spouting nonsense on the virtues of biodynamics: we taste black fruits and earthiness and smokiness.
Discovered thanks to Massimiliano Baló, a clever young sommelier at Koffmann's. It costs £44 there, retail about a third of that (which, by the way, isn't bad by London restaurant standards).
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