The circumstances in which you eat matter a lot.
There are some wonderful hikes around Trento, at the end of which sometimes is a 'rifugio' that offers shelter for the night and/or pure and simple comfort food. We began the walking season with a beautiful and easy mid-altitude walk to Rifugio San Pietro, on Monte Calino in the Ledro Alps. High above the Garda lake, it is at about 1000 meters altitude, reached starting from about 500m, first through the impressive medieval village of Calvola
then through forest and countryside (notable is a chestnut tree area).
Huff...puff...huff...puff...finally here is the rifugio:
As you can see, it is near a church (a pretty old church in fact, the original structure possibly dating back to the Middle Ages). The walk was easy, as we said, but still it was 500m ascent and we took it briskily to the top (and then around the area), the weather was still fresh, and so we were starving by 12.00 a.m.
We are greeted by the concierge manager:
The interior is cosy and pleasant:
The 'menu' offered either Goulasch with polenta (€11) or Sausages with Polenta (€11). After some deliberation, we choose Goulasch with polenta and Sausages with Polenta.
As accompaniment there was only krauts (€5). We chose krauts.
For red wine there was 'red wine' (€4 half litre jug). We choose...yes you guessed it.
The mains arrive; clearly they don't skimp on portions:
And the krauts do not come alone (note the complimentary extra sausage on top)!...
We paid €34 in total inclusive of €2 for a coffee and €1 for water.
The managers of the rifugio were eating next to us, which can only inspire confidence, and there were a few other happy looking hikers enhancing the atmosphere. Sure, the Signora who cooked and served will not win any Michelin stars, but those slabs of polenta soaked in the sauce gave, in the circumstances, as much pleasure as the best of city meals! And we are told that there is a proper chef in the warmer months as well as a little selection of wines...we'll be back.
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2 comments:
There is no better meal than one you have hiked to-- especially if it it in the Alps.
How true!
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